Instagram Photo

The Instagram photo I pinned up of the idyllic mountain view from the balcony of my hotel room shows the epitome of peace and serenity. A wide angle lens would reveal the construction of a new set of apartments about a meter away, and a video would include the constant noise of drilling and the clamoring of other tools.

Like my experience traveling solo in Sri Lanka, it is wonder marred by less happy circumstance. I have lounged in paradise and acquired forty mosquito bites, eaten delicious curry and got food poisoning, seen incredible wildlife and had to exit the vehicle to go to the toilet, hoping not to be the second British tourist in a year to be taken by a wild animal in the act. I have witnessed the most stunning scenery and awoken alone on a hillside. I have met interesting people, but made no lasting connections and climbed little Adam's Peak to watch the sunrise, then gone to bed and stayed right through until the next day, too exhausted to bother going out to get dinner.

I am quite relieved the traveller part of my journey is over as I leave Sri Lanka and look towards the ashram in India. If I was 22 and full of beans I could and would make more of it. As it stands, the strings of sachets hanging in the doorways of makeshift shops (a corporate responsibility project by Unilever to make soap powder affordable and thereby sell more) give the same feel as being in Ghana, buses are driven in the same haphazard manner in Thailand. Visiting someone's home brings about the same chitchat in Colombia. And tourists are approached with the familiar hungry expression all over. Or is this just the lens of fatigue? I don't know because they are now to me one and the same. Like a cat, I'd be more comfortable curled up at home on soft furnishings.

However, the site of the sun emerging from behind mountains and the gentle glow of golden grass as the darkness is shooed away, the sounds of birds and insects rising in the trees and unusual native animals still stun the senses.

I have now been out of pyjamas for one month. I think that's what I wanted, but I can't say its been easy. The biggest difference is that rather than yo-yoing huge expenditures of energy on full days of activity followed by entire days in bed, I have reached a slower daily pace, and with it a kind of languid sluggishness that doesn't feel desirable but is I suppose the correct approach.

Despite not feeling immediate benefits, I have made insights and some progress during my time in Sri Lanka:-

- I have learnt that I massively overestimated what I can manage. The discrepancy shocked me. By observing the behaviour of other travellers, I can now estimate that I have about 1/20 energy of the average person, or even 1/30. That means for every one unit of energy I have, other people might have twenty to thirty. Before I might have guessed as much as 1/3 or 1/2. Whilst denial undoubtedly makes for a merrier headspace, I need a measure of the problem in order to solve it.
- I learnt that pushing myself is the wrong approach (the consequences when traveling are too serious)
- I gained a mindful perspective on the meaning of peace and happiness through the skill of meditation

The diet has been more straightforward:
- I haven't drunk alcohol in a month (except for one pinacolada in Unawatuna)
- I have skipped most sweet treats
- I have replaced caffeinated drinks with hot water and fresh ginger
- I have gradually started veering away from dishes containing dairy and gluten

My bloodstream feels noticeably less perturbed with the absence of sugar buzzing, caffeine stimulating and the subtle poison of alcohol. Any more significant results, if they come, will take time (and more care).

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